I decided to buy a new damper, put it in then rebuild the old one. When I bought the bike a year ago, the lockout was non existent meaning the damper cartridge was r()()ted. Using the BBT9 BBT tool, remove the top spin cover and dump the air as you would for a needle bearing reset (that you should do every 3 months).
Using the super castle tool that a few of us have , remove the damper-air shock assembly. It will unwind in about 8 turns.
It will need a bit of a yank to dislodge all the air chamber seals. The whole assembly (lower of the two assemblies in the picture below) comes out as one big long piece of magic.
Old one is bottom, new one is top. there is a protective plastic bitto at the air shock end of the new damper to remove. Note the stand offs (tire levers) used to avoid losing too much grease off the air damper seals on the paper. Mine looked very clean no discernible dirt or contamination or bourgeois individualism.
After removing the cir-clip at the bottom, and note the washer position ,now you need to get the bottom 6mm hex key undone. You’ll need to make the tool for this as you need to grip the piston tightly but not deform it. Drill a 1/2″ precise hole in a bit of wood and saw down the middle and grip in vice. You will use this tool later to support work on the piston, place bits, do things up, support the strut etc
air damper bits…..before placement over new damper piston (below)
Looking down the tube- this is actually the air chamber at the bottom….you can see the bearing races and the air pressure pump valve.
This little fella (below) is likely dislodged when you pull out the piston-damper assembly.
Best way to get it back in is to push the telescope all the way in (max travel IN) so that it is only about two inches below the top of the big tube , where you can jiggle with a bent co tanger around so it drops over the four strips of metal (races).
Push the damper- air piston into the tube. Careful not to dislodge little fella above. re assemble. You will need to jiggle the damper assembly so it drops in far enough to reach the thread with the castle tool.
Now when I lock out, it is like a rigid fork. Yay. And the rebound control works, (instead of no damping like a pogo stick) but it doesn’t do alot until I get up to 9 / 13 total clicks.
Don’t forget the 3 x travel limiters if you have a 29er .