Well after a very deep and dreamless sleep it was time to do it all again. Another pre-dawn bowl of Pho and it was time get to work on the first 3.5km hill off the day, starting right at the edge of town, with an average over 10% – an interesting way to wake up the legs.


All the aches and pains melted away as hit the descent though. A beautiful swooping road set into the side of the mountain. The surface was good and we could usually see a few corners ahead, so we could really let the bikes run.
We flew down into Meo Vac for a second breakfast and to top up on some supplies as we weren’t too sure where the next food would be. The town was filling up for market day so all the local ethnic tribes were out in the finest clothes. Some of the men were hitting the rice wine already, pig carcasses were being butchered on the edge of the street, juvenille pigs were having the tesitcles felt (and squealing very loudly in protest), and nearly every second person seemed to be carrying a chicken, some times more than 1.
As we rolled out we saw this road sign
It translates literally as ‘Happiness Road’, never has a road been more aptly named. Another short climb lead us to a monster of a descent, the first half was a lot like the last descent, David and I hit 69km/h. It was like yesterday’s monster climb in reverse, in all it took us just 20km to loose all of our hard won altitude.
Most of the rest of the morning was through rolling countryside, following a river, but every few minutes there would be people, sometimes waving, sometimes oblivious to us, but everyone seemed to be on the move on Sunday morning.
Truth be told I was struggling and by the time we clocked up a 100k and stopped for lunch I was thinking of ways to grab a tow from Jonny on the last few hills I knew we had ahead. A belly full of rice and some new resolve saw us head out for the last stretch. By this time Asger’s years off the bike were taking their toll on his, shall we say, ‘contact points’ so the two of rolled along together determined to savour the last 60 or 70k as best we could.
The road was never really flat, we climbed, we cruised, we spun our way along amidst rice paddies and stilt houses and finally, with 10km to go, we crested the last hill. We found David waiting in probably the best located bar in Vietnam with cold beer and a bucket shower waiting for us, and random locals photographing us on their phones.

The next 10k were a joy, we swooped down to the edge of town, and then rode through town behind Jonny’s bike, looking for all the world as if we’d just done something special. In my mind, at least, I had.
For those that are interested in such things, here’s a screen shot of day 2’s Strava info from David’s phone, my Garmin died half way through the day, unaccustomed as it to such deeds. All achievements are his alone. (The route from day 1 is basically the major road running to the north.)








Looks like a great experience Matt. Love the description of the market town. But motorbike support?! Come on, softness!! Looks like the other guys were on standard roadies. How were the road surfaces?
Road surface was good – had to be wary of the odd pothole and rock in the road, but mainly smooth tarmac. I don’t think we did any rough patches longer than the old RdG in the whole weekend.
As for motorbike support – $50 for the entire weekend split between the 3 of us – who wouldn’t? And he was all a good guy that knew quite a lot about the area. He also has an impressive collection of dirt bikes, minsks, scooters etc for hire for anyone that doesn’t want to ride the whole thing….
Agree, if there’s someone experienced in supporting rides up there then a good idea to use his services. I didn’t want someone buzzing around us on a motorbike while we were riding (mostly in lovely silence) but I guess you could just get him to go on to the next rest point and wait for you in a cafe or whatever.
Those were some awesome climbs, and that scenery is really distinctive, with the limestone mountains and terraced ricefields. Just beautiful and totally different to the centre. It’d be nice to keep going into China. The cycling in Yunnan looks awesome. Maybe later this year…
Looks very enticing, maybe Haute Nam!